Saturday, April 25, 2015

Crye-Leike REALTORS 423-473-9545 Solar Panels-Cheaper Than Ever,-Why Aren't You Getting Them?


By Deborah Huso
Solar power used to be a prohibitively expensive technology, but recently, the cost of residential solar panel systems has dropped … by a lot. And what once seemed like a futuristic option is finally taking off.

“Solar is one of very few home improvements that starts paying for itself the minute it is installed and turned on,” says Mike Newman, an outreach manager for Clean Markets, a firm in Philadelphia that works with businesses to maximize energy efficiency.

In general, he says, homeowners can recover the upfront cost in as little as three to four years—or as far out as 10 years or more—depending on local utility, state, and federal incentives, as well as the cost of electricity.

Now that China and other nations are churning out lower-cost panels, prices have dropped across the board. Improvements in technology have also driven down costs, Newman says. The Solar Energy Industries Association reported in January that prices had dropped 53%since 2010, and the National Renewable Energy Laboratory forecasts continuing double-digit declines for the next few years, although perhaps at a slower pace.

And companies offering solar leases allow homeowners to take advantage of lower prices without the upfront cost of buying the solar technology, or the cost and hassle of maintenance.

“In every market we aim to be at least 20% cheaper than what the utility offers in that market, and sometimes we can be as much as 50% cheaper,” says Dagen Olsen, national sales trainer for LGCY Power, an authorized dealer for Sunrun, which offers solar leases.

Jim Nelson, CEO of the Santa Barbara, CA-based solar companySolar3D, says that now is the time for homeowners to take the solar plunge.

“That precipitous drop [in solar panel prices] has a bottom, and the instability of those economics opens the door for an opposite reaction of consolidation and stability,” he said. “As such, the industry is now projecting a modest decline in material pricing to the tune of only 15% over the next two years.”

So if you’re thinking of going solar, here are some things to consider.

Is your roof too old for new technology?

Newman advises homeowners to assess the age and condition of their roof, as well as its orientation toward the sun. For maximum efficiency, panels should be installed in a place that receives optimal sunlight at peak daytime hours.

If a roof is too old, faces the wrong direction, or is shaded by nearby trees, owners can opt for a ground-mounted solar system, he said. This carries a higher price tag, however, because installers need to build a structure to hold up the panels, dig trenches, and lay cables that carry electricity to the home.

Which type of panel is right for me?

Most solar power systems usephotovoltaic cells, typically made ofcrystalline silicon, to convert solar power into electricity. Newer thin-film cells can be used as roof tiles or even skylight glazing. There’s no “best” panel for a residence, Nelson says. Much like choosing a car, homeowners must decide which factors they value most—price versus performance and efficiency.

And don’t dwell too much on where the panels were manufactured, Nelson says.

“Chinese panels, American-made panels, American companies with [overseas] assembly facilities—be it in the Philippines or Mexico—basically are all puzzle pieces that the consultant and the customer have at their disposal to assemble the best possible project design for the customer and property,” he said.

How many panels do you need?

Three factors are used to determine the size of a solar panel system: the usable roof area (or ground mount area), the annual amount of electricity the home uses, and the homeowner’s budget. A good installer will work with homeowners to determine what works best in the allotted space and budget.

And solar doesn’t have to be all or nothing. “A homeowner may have enough roof area for a solar system that would offset 75% of their annual electricity costs,” Newman said, “but their budget may only allow for a system that can do 60%.”

If you’re not ready to commit, lease

The advent of leasing options has been a game changer in the solar power market.

“Because there’s no upfront cost, it makes solar really accessible for all income levels,” Olsen said. “Everyone can take advantage of solar, as long as they’re a homeowner.”

Olsen says that while conventional electricity through California’s Pacific Gas and Electric can run from 16.5 cents to 33 cents per kilowatt-hour, depending on usage (heavy users pay a higher rate), Sunrun charges California consumers 15 cents per kilowatt-hour, with a 2.9% annual increase. Customers can also opt for a flat rate of 19 cents per kilowatt-hour, over 20 years.

In addition, solar leases are transferable if you end up selling your home. The additional paperwork could intimidate some buyers, although Olsen says Sunrun has a service transfer team that works with your real estate team to finesse the transition.

Or you can buy the system

Owning is more of a long-term investment, but you’ll have more options in terms of choosing a system. It’s difficult to give a cost range for a solar system because of the different energy agencies, systems, and state regulations involved. A cost calculator—like this one at Solar Estimate—can help determine what you’ll pay based on system size and what percentage of energy needs to be offset.

As an example, Olsen said the purchase price of an average solar system in California would run about $23,000. Plus, you can take advantage of the 30% federal solar investment tax credit through 2016, and any other local or state incentives. For more information, seedsireusa.org and energy.gov.

There has also been an explosion in the variety of credit options available for financing, Nelson said. Many programs offer zero out-of-pocket plans for the homeowner.

Think long-term

When plugging in numbers, Nelson warns potential buyers against focusing on a “payback period,” or how long it will take to recoup the cost of the investment. “That’s a very shortsighted approach, especially in the case of a long-term investment.”

Just think, the next time you enjoy a beautiful sunny day, you could be enjoying the knowledge that you’re saving money on power—and contributing to a healthier planet. With all that extra cash, maybe you can afford that Tesla—or at least a Leaf. Maybe.

Terry Barnette
REALTOR, Broker, ABR, SFR, BPOR, e-Pro
Crye-Leike REALTORS
Office: 423-473-9545x217
Direct/Text: 423-463-0024
TheBarnetteTeam.com
KM4HDV
licensed in Tennessee

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Crye-Leike REALTORS 423.473.9545 x217 Acknowledges Nt'l Volunteer Week!

Thank A Volunteer!

American Red Cross - National Volunteer Week
Terry L Barnette
REALTOR®, Broker, ABR, e-Pro, SFR, BPOR
Crye-Leike REALTORS®
Direct/Text: 423-463-0024
Fax: 423-370-1999
Office: 423-473-9545 x217
KM4HDV
 

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

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12 Simple Home Repair Jobs to Lift You Out of Winter's Funk Terry Barnette Crye-Leike REALTORS 423-473-9545

What to Look (and Listen) For

In each room, look around and take stock of what needs fixing or improving. Focus on small, quick-hit changes, not major redos. Here are some likely suspects:

1.  Sagging towel rack or wobbly toilet tissue holder. Unscrew the fixture and look for the culprit. It’s probably a wimpy, push-in type plastic drywall anchor. Pull that out (or just poke it through the wall) and replace it with something more substantial. Toggle bolts are strongest, and threaded types such as E-Z Ancor are easy to install. 

2.  Squeaky door hinges. Eliminate squeaks by squirting a puff of powdered graphite ($2.50 for a 3-gram tube) alongside the pin where the hinge turns. If the door sticks, plane off a bit of the wood, then touch up the paint so the surgery isn’t noticeable.

3.  Creaky floor boards. They’ll shush if you fasten them down better. Anti-squeak repair kits, such as Squeeeeek No More ($23), feature specially designed screws that are easy to conceal. A low-cost alternative: Dust a little talcum powder into the seam where floorboards meet — the talcum acts as a lubricant to quiet boards that rub against each other.

4.  Rusty shutoff valves. Check under sinks and behind toilets for the shutoff valves on your water supply lines. These little-used valves may slowly rust in place over time, and might not work when you need them most. Keep them operating by putting a little machine oil or WD-40 on the handle shafts. Twist the handles back and forth to work the oil into the threads. If they won’t budge, give the oil a couple of hours to penetrate, and try again. 

5.  Blistered paint on shower ceilings. This area gets a lot of heat and moisture that stresses paint finishes. Scrape off old paint and recoat, using a high-quality exterior-grade paint. Also, be sure everyone uses the bathroom vent when showering to help get rid of excess moisture.

6.  Loose handles or hinges on furniture, cabinets, and doors. You can probably fix these with a few quick turns of a screwdriver. But if a screw just spins in place, try making the hole fit the screw better by stuffing in a toothpick coated with glue, or switching to a larger screw.

Safety Items

You know those routine safety checks you keep meaning to do but never have the time? Now’s the time.

7.  Carbon monoxide and smoke detectors. If you don’t like waking up to the annoying chirp of smoke detector batteries as they wear down, do what many fire departments recommend and simply replace all of them at the same time once a year.

8.  Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets. You’re supposed to test them once a month, but who does? Now’s a great time. You’ll find them around potentially wet areas — building codes specify GFCI outlets in bathrooms, kitchens, and for outdoor receptacles. Make sure the device trips and resets correctly. If you find a faulty outlet, replace it or get an electrician to do it for $75 to $100.

Another good project is to replace your GFCIs with the latest generation of protected outlets that test themselves, such as Levitron’s SmartlockPro Self-Test GFCI ($28). You won’t have to manually test ever again!

9.  Exhaust filter for the kitchen stove. By washing it to remove grease, you’ll increase the efficiency of your exhaust vent; plus, if a kitchen stovetop fire breaks out, this will help keep the flames from spreading.

10.  Clothes dryer vent. Pull the dryer out from the wall, disconnect the vent pipe, and vacuum lint out of the pipe and the place where it connects to the machine. Also, wipe lint off your exterior dryer vent so the flap opens and closes easily. (You’ll need to go outside for that, but it’s quick.) Remember that vents clogged with old dryer lint are a leading cause of house fires

11.  Drain hoses. Inspect your clothes washer, dishwasher, and icemaker. If you see any cracks or drips, replace the hose so you don’t come home to a flood one day.

12.  Electrical cords. Replace any that are brittle, cracked, or have damaged plugs. If you’re using extension cords, see if you can eliminate them — for example, by replacing that too-short lamp cord with one that’s longer. If you don’t feel up to rewiring the lamp yourself, drop it off at a repair shop as you head out to shop for your repair materials. It might not be ready by the end of the day. But, hey, one half-done repair that you can’t check off is no big deal, right?

Terry L Barnette
REALTOR®, Broker, ABR, e-Pro, SFR, BPOR
Crye-Leike REALTORS®
Direct/Text: 423-463-0024
Fax: 423-370-1999
Office: 423-473-9545 x217
KM4HDV
 

Monday, April 13, 2015

Terry Barnette Crye-Leike REALTORS 423-473-9545 Season-by-Season Lawn Maintenance Calendar

By: Douglas Trattner

Follow our season-by-season lawn maintenance calendar to get a barefoot-worthy lawn and ensure great curb appeal.

Early Spring

Like so many maintenance jobs, everything goes smoother -- and you’ll get better results -- with proper preparation. Early spring is the time to get ready for lawn-growing and mowing season.

Related:
 How to Bring Back Your Lawn After Winter Damage

Sharpen mower blades to ensure clean cuts. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving jagged edges that discolor the lawn and invite pathogens. 

Sharpen mower blades once each month during grass-cutting season. Have a backup blade (about $20) so that a sharp one is always on hand. 

Tune up your mower with a new sparkplug ($3 to $5) and air filter ($5 to $10). Your mower might not need a new sparkplug every season, but changing it is a simple job, and doing it every year ensures you won’t forget the last time you replaced your sparkplug.

Buy fresh gas. Gas that’s been left to sit over the winter can accumulate moisture that harms small engines. This is especially true for fuel containing ethanol, so use regular grades of gasoline. 

If you need to dump old gasoline, ask your city or county for local disposal sites that take old fuel.

Clean up your lawn. Time to get out the leaf rakes and remove any twigs and leaves that have accumulated over the winter. A thick layer of wet leaves can smother a lawn if not immediately removed in early spring. Cleaning up old debris clears the way for applying fertilizer and herbicides.

Spring
Early Summer
Summer
Early Fall
Fall

Spring

Depending on your weather, your grass will now start growing in earnest, so be ready for the first cutting. Don’t mow when the grass is wet — you could spread diseases, and wet clippings clog up lawn mowers.

Fertilizing: Both spring and fall are good times to fertilize your lawn. In the northern third of the country, where winters are cold, fertilize in fall — cool weather grasses go dormant over winter and store energy in their roots for use in the spring.

For the rest of the country, apply fertilizer just as your grass begins its most active growth. For best results, closely follow the application directions on the product. You’ll spend about $50 to $75 per application for an average 1/4-acre lot.

Aeration: Aerating punches small holes in your lawn so water, fertilizers, and oxygen reach grass roots. Pick a day when the soil is damp but not soaked so the aeration machine can work efficiently.

Related: More about lawn aeration

Pre-emergent herbicides: Now is the time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent crabgrass and other weeds from taking root in your lawn. A soil thermometer is a handy helper; you can pick one up for $10 to $20. When you soil temperature reaches 58 degrees — the temperature at which crabgrass begins to germinate — it’s time to apply the herbicide.

Early Spring
Early Summer
Summer
Early Fall
Fall

Early Summer

Watch out for grubs: Warm weather means that grub worms, the larvae stage of June, Japanese, and other beetles, start feeding on the tender root systems of lawns. Affected lawns show browning and wilting patches.

To be certain that the culprits are grubs, pull back the sod and look for white, C-shaped grubs. If you see more than 10 per square foot, your lawn should be treated with a chemical pesticide.

Milky spore is an environmentally friendly way to control some species of grubs. When using insecticides, read and follow all label directions, and water the product into the soil immediately. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.

Grass-cutting tip: Your grass is starting to grow fast, and you might even be cutting more than once a week to keep up. To keep grass healthy, mow often enough so you’re removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade. 

Pesky weeds: Weeds that have escaped an herbicide application should be removed with a garden fork. Use a post-emergent herbicide only if you think the situation is getting out of hand.

Check out our guide to some common types of weeds and tips on how to get rid of them. 

Early Spring 
Spring
Summer
Early Fall
Fall

Summer

Here’s a good mantra to guide you through the heart of grass-mowing season: The taller the grass, the deeper the roots, the fewer the weeds, and the more moisture the soil holds between watering.

With that in mind, here’s how to ensure a healthy, green lawn:

  • Set your mower blade height to 3 inches.
  • Deep and infrequent watering is better for lawns than frequent sprinkles, which promote shallow root growth. In general, lawns need about 1 inch of water per week to maintain green color and active growth.

Lawns that receive less than that will likely go dormant. That’s okay, the grass is still alive, but dormant lawns should still receive at least 1 inch of water per month. Your grass will green up again when the weather brings regular rains.

  • To check the output of a sprinkler, scatter some pie tins around the yard to see how much water collects in a specific length of time. Having a rain gauge ($5 to $20) will help you keep track of how much water the lawn receives naturally.
  • At least once each month, clean underneath your mower to prevent spreading lawn diseases.
  • Although it’s OK to leave grass clippings on the lawn where they can decompose and nourish the soil, large clumps of clippings should be removed. Regularly rake up any leaves, twigs, and debris.

If your grass seems to be stressed out, check out our advice on what to do if your lawn is turning brown.

Early Spring
Spring
Early Summer
Early Fall
Fall

Early Fall

The best time to patch bare or thin spots is when the hot, dry days of summer have given way to cooler temps. Follow these simple steps:

1. Remove any dead grass.

2. Break up the soil with a garden trowel.

3. Add an inch of compost and work it into the soil.

4. Add grass seed that’s designed for shade or full sun, depending on the area you’re working on. Spread the seed evenly across the bare patch.

5. Use a hard-tooth rake to work the seed into the soil to a depth of about half an inch.

6. Sprinkle grass clippings over the patch to help prevent the soil from drying out.

7. Water the area; you’ll want to keep the patch moist, so lightly water once a day until the seed germinates and the new grass gets about one inch tall.

Early Spring
Spring
Early Summer
Summer
Fall

Fall

Your main job in fall is to keep your lawn free of leaves and other debris. You can use a mulching mower to break up leaves and add the organic matter to your soil, but be sure to clean up any clumps so they don’t kill the grass.

In the northern one-third of the country, now is the time to fertilize your lawn. Your grass will store the nutrients in its roots as it goes dormant over the winter, and your lawn will be ready for a jump start when spring warms the ground.

This is also the time to clean up your garden. 

Early Spring
Spring
Early Summer
Summer
Early Fall


Terry L Barnette
REALTOR®, Broker, ABR, e-Pro, SFR, BPOR
Crye-Leike REALTORS®
Direct/Text: 423-463-0024
Fax: 423-370-1999
Office: 423-473-9545 x217
KM4HDV
 

Terry Barnette Crye-Leike REALTORS 423-473-9545 Refacing Your Kitchen Cabinets: The Options and Costs

Kitchen cabinet refacing before and after
Terry Barnette
REALTOR, Broker, ABR, SFR, BPOR, e-Pro
Crye-Leike REALTORS
Office: 423-473-9545x217
Direct/Text: 423-463-0024
TheBarnetteTeam.com
KM4HDV
licensed in Tennessee